Christmas Traditions Pt 1

Amsterdam from my hotel
 

I must admit, I  have not paid much attention to the "Happy Holidays" v." Merry Christmas" debate that seems to be the new hot topic on Fox News, nor to the "War on Christmas" as it has been purported by Sarah Palin and reported by Jon Stewart.  But I must tell you, if you have become a "humbug" around this time of year and want to return to the feelings around Christmas you had as a child, then go on a Christmas Market trip through Germany and Central Europe.  The two most popular river cruises this time of year sail along the Danube and Rhine Rivers stopping at various Weihnachtsmarkten, or Christmas markets, along the way. This year I sailed with a group of five other relatives and friends along the Rhine to enjoy the markets along it shores.

MS Concerto

My travelling companions and I met up in Amsterdam a few days before the cruise to get un-jet-lagged and to take in some of the local sights. Amsterdam, much like my hometown of New York City, is a rather cosmopolitan, secular city, and, as such, it's Christmas Market, along the commercial strip, is mainly food stands a with a smattering of local craftsmen's stalls.  We were here for St Nicholas' Day, which is a big deal in the Netherlands.  The good bishop arrives to bring special treats to good children. He is also immortalized in consumable chocolate facsimiles wrapped in foil with his jolly and comforting façade on the outside.

The one disturbing thing I noted was the presence of "Schwartze Piet", his dark-skinned assistant, who accompanies the "bish" checking on the "good" vs "bad" behavior of the local kinder. 

St Nicholas and Piets
 

As an American, I found this more than offensive, but was told it was their tradition of 300 years or more. I did point out that in the U.S. we did abolish slavery over a hundred years after over 200 years of involuntary servitude. But I was assured by  many locals that Piet's countenance was the result of his living in chimneys...I did not buy that one.  So I "googled" him only to find out that Piet was originally a Moor (read African Muslim) who was taken under the wing of the good bishop and converted to Christianity. My first encounter with this tradition was when a tug boat pulled up next to the ship and St. Nick and his "crew" threw candy onto the deck of the ship.  I am still amazed that this tradition continues, but I understand some recent immigrants from Surinam are putting the screws to St. Nick encouraging him to get rid of his objectionable assistant. I wish them luck on that one.  They are going to need it.


Because of when we left, we were out of the States on Thanksgiving, a thing my well-adjusted middle child was constantly reminding me of before I left. She and her siblings would attend the annual feast hosted by my cousin Fred and his wife, Kathy, a high school friend of mine.  They were well fed and entertained.  On the ship we had a festive Thanksgiving dinner as we sailed out of Arnhem in the Netherlands.  The next day we arrived at our first official Chriskindelsmarket in Cologne. This is the place where the first cologne was invented, and you can still buy the original scent here.  At the time of its invention, the folks around town did not bathe but three times a year, and there was definitely a need for the body-odor hiding elixir.  The cathedral here was the largest and tallest for over
100 years and is quite grand and cavernous. 

The markets were fun and we had our very first Gluhwein here.  It is basically hot mulled and spiced wine...red wine usually.  Similar to glogg with out the added distilled spitrits, although you could order it with rum or schnapps if  wished. 

Thus began my collection of "gluhwein cups" which will make a fine serving set for some traditional Swanson family glogg. That is one tradition I think I will continue. 

The next day saw us in Koblenz enjoying the town in the morning and its market.  The afternoon we sailed the Rhine looking at castles and the mythic Lorelei Rock upon which a beautiful maiden lured mariners to their deaths against her rocky coast.

Anyway, enough for now...I have things to do today....to be continued...